11 Oct - 3 Nov 2005Well when we left for India everything really was decided at the last minute and I had completely forgotten about this trek to Nepal that I had entertained briefly once before. But after I settled into India - I decided that I should do the trek as India was so close and I may not be back this way for a while.
So that was in August - I emailed the trek leader - (back in Brisbane) and started planning. Anyway the trek was in October - 10 days after returning from the Maldives - yessssss most people would do it the other way around - and in hindsight I would too. Anyway I had roughly 2 months to train for this trek, which was from Lukla to Everest Base Camp - roughly 100km (gotta check that with Rode, our map happy co-trekker) but ALL uphill. The trek was also roughly 3 weeks - 2 weeks up and 1 week down and was during the Nepalese autumn.
I found a gym in Koramangala and they organised a program - lets just say that (I think) I know a little bit about muscles and how they work and I decided that their program was too intensive - so I adjusted it. From memory the program they had designed was for me to do weights 6 days a week - I could be wrong, but I just listened to my body, and I am happy to report that my body did not fail me.
I arrived in Kathmandu 2 days before the trek - Carol met me at the airport, with Chitra, and it was very nice to see her - after all the emailing back and forth over the last couple of months it was lovely to put a face to the name. We then went to our accommodation at The Moonlight Hotel - I got to meet all of the other trekkers - Evan (Townsville), Annissa (Brisbane), Leeanne (Brisbane), Rod otherwise known as 'Rode' (Melbourne) and god help us all Lorraine and Nigel (Brisbane). I knew I was in trouble when after talking to Nigel for about 5 minutes he said "Well, when in Rome..........." He said this a LOT and I'd only just met him - but how could he be that bad when his lovely partner Lorraine was by his side - so I gave him another chance and also consoled myself with the thought that he would walk up the front of the group and I would hang to the back. Oh Nigel - I do love ya!
Unfortunately this did not happen - we were both up the front of the walking group, and happy to be there. Of course there was lots of shit stirring throughout the day, along with lots of swearing - but every day we all made it to our goal. It was not always easy, each day actually got harder and harder - along with each bed and apparently the pillows (this was one of Rode's comments - Nigel and I just laughed). There was a lot of laughing and the whole group got along really well, I thought.
Personally I had 2 bad days on the way up and none on the way down. The first 'bad' day was at Tengboche - of course!!! And that damn frikin' HILL - my fellow trekkers know the one I am talking about and some affectionately refer to it as Little Everest. So I'd like to say that I have never had any aspirations to climb Mt Everest so why would I want to climb its Junior??? Well I learnt a thing or two that day. FIRST - never trust your group leader and SECOND death did not come that day.
The day started out just lovely - we were at Tengboche - where there is the largest Tibetan monastery outside of Tibet and on top of a hill, with a bakery and a view to Mt Everest - spectacular, what more could you want??? It was also a rest day - disguised as an acclimitisation day but commonly known as 'just another trekking day'. So we all set out to do this climb that shouldn't take that long and in the words of the Kajiman "WHY NOT" its a lovely day....
So off we went and it really was one of those 'how much further?' and 'are we there yet?' days. And of course the trusted leaders were ever obliging with pointing up there and saying 'just there, not much further' - hence 'never trust your group leader'. It went on forever - the weather turned nasty until eventually we could not see the pretty picture of Tengboche anymore- so surely it must be time to go down??? I mean it was now snowing and you could just see the foot in front of you - some of us (most of us) were not expecting this - oh but just a bit further, plus our group leader had a memorial to build, so we must trudge on.....
I am not afraid of heights and I am not afraid of hard work or lots of walking or lots of hard, long walking at heights - but currently I am afraid of death. Not the actual being dead part, but the part where I know its going to happen and I don't want it to happen. Up there on THAT HILL - as the weather got worse, and the path wetter and more slippery - a path that was so narrow that you could only put one foot after the other, and a path that took you higher and higher with each of those steps - I thought I was going to die. I was uncomfortable with this.
It was the first time in my life that I have ever had that feeling - so you can imagine that while having this feeling and being told that we must continue why I would be rather hesitant. Yes I could understand that this climb is an acclimitisation climb and I knew the importance of that - but quite frankly I was about to die - so the acclimitisation didn't seem that importatn anymore!We had come quite a height and I was satisfied that I would be ok, altitude wise, with the height I had done - but well it was dangerous and as much as I wanted to go down ( I was not alone in this kind of thinking) I also knew that it would not be the best idea for me to go down alone - so what does one do - they must keep going!!
But let it be known that with each step I got angrier, as I still believed I was going to die - and I had a lot of livin' to do.
We got to the top (I think) and the Nepalese guides and porters went about building the memorial - the memorial was then done and we were allowed to do down. Thankfully we were assisted down by some very talented, happy porters - our porters. I have never held anyone's hand so tightly before - and he never let go of my hand until we arrived at our accommodation. Hence death did not come that day :)
We were all completely soaked through, cold to the inside and not too happy.... It was some time later before Carol and the Kajiman managed to find the Teahouse - so much time had passed that we had all managed to dry most of our soaked clothes by the fire - so by the time Carol and Kaji showed we were all back to being happy. When Carol walked in soaked through, like we had been and just wanting to get out of her clothes and shower and most likely be left alone - it was like looking in the mirror and not appropriate to laugh at Kaji's mistake of walking right past the teahouse about an hour ago. But today, well its funny :)